I received a request to do a step by step guide on how to do a look like the ‘Marinière’ that I posted last week. Since I don’t feel comfortable doing videos yet, here is a pictorial guide !
First, the basics, of course – wash your face, and moisturizer!
I started by applying Too Faced’s Shadow Insurance primer on my eyes, and waited about 3 minutes until it was dry.
Next, I swept a white, shimmering shadow from my lash line to the eyebrow, as a soft of ‘gesso’ style base for the rest of my eye makeup. Use a large, fluffy eyeshadow brush – you don’t want the color to be too thick. I used the white from my Chanel Voyage palette, but any matte or shimmering white will do – I like the shimmery one to give depth to the rest of my eyeshadow.
Next, apply your lid color. I chose a shimmering muted grayish beige color from my Bobbi Brown shimmering neutrals palette. I used a lid brush, and wetted it first to intensify the color of the shadow.
Next, contour your eye socket with a slightly deeper shade. I used the chocolate from the Chanel Voyage palette for this, and oddly enough, a concealer brush to apply this with a bit of precision.
Now, blend the two shades upwards and outwards, to give an imprecise, slightly smokey effect.
I applied a darker shadow as my crease color – I have small, almond-shaped eyes, and find this really gives them depth and a hint of a feline look. I used a flat sided eyeshadow brush, and a combination of MAC’s corduroy ( a true, dark brown) and a shimmering version in a similar shade from my Dior Quad. Apply the shadow in a V shape on the outer 1/4th of the eye. Don’t worry about applying this very precisely, as you will come back in and blend it.
Finally, I dabbed a bit of gold, shimmering eyeshadow on the inner corner, and in the middle of the lid, to bring light to the entire area, and then brushed a light, shimmery flesh tone on to the brow bone (just under my eyebrows) and blended out the entire eye.
I curled my lashes (I use a Sonia Kashuk curler – great quality, cheap price) - but this is an optional step. Make sure, if you are curling your lashes, to do this BEFORE eyeliner and mascara, as the curler will cause your liner to smudge and will break lashes that already have mascara. Also, do your liner and mascara immediately after curling lashes – mascara acts as a hairspray for your lashes, and they will lose their curl after a few moments without it.
I then applied a gel eyeliner (Maybelline Lasting Drama) with a thin brush, making sure to pull on the corner of my eye to get a precise application. Since my eyes are small, I only apply liner to the outer 3/4 of my eye, but you can line the entire eye if it suits your fancy! I started the line thin, and then made it progressively thicker toward the outer corner, lining slightly up and just outside of the natural end of my eye, giving an elongating effect to the area.
I then applied mascara (DiorShow 360) – I do this in short, quick coats, doing different parts of the lashes at different times. I sometimes tip the mascara wand vertically to get the lashes by the inner corners, and add an extra coat to the outer corners to give a feline effect and enhance the shape of my eyes. Always start at the root of the lashes and wiggle the wand up – if you’re not wearing liner, you can add extra coats of mascara to the roots of lashes to give a liner effect. Tip : I bend the head of my mascara wand, so the brush is perpendicular to the rest of the wand. This helps to distribute the mascara and give emphasis to the lashes on the outer corner of the eye.
I then applied foundation – note I’ve applied several dots all over my face. I blended out with a MAC foundation brush, and then ran over the entire face with my fingers to ensure a smooth, seamless look. Make sure to blend the foundation into your hairline, around the sides of the face, and on to the neck, as nothing is more tacky as a demarcation line on your foundation! If you’re short on time and can’t wait for your foundation to absorb before applying powder, do this step after eyeshadow and before liner/mascara, giving you a few extra minutes.
Next are concealer and highlighter. The concealer is applied under my eyes and blended out towards the side of my face, around the sides of my nose, the corners of my mouth, and on any blemishes. Always apply your concealer after foundation, otherwise you risk putting on too much and getting that dreaded ‘reverse panda’ effect. I used a liquid highlighter on the tops of my cheekbones and temples, the inner corners of my eyes, bridge of the nose, in the cupid’s bow just above my top lip, and just under my bottom lip. The trick to highlighter is to apply it in places you want to emphasize and, well, highlight ! I find putting it above, and below, the mouth, brings light to the area and makes my mouth look younger, and fuller. I then blended everything with my fingers.
I applied a few dots of my 2True Blush Pink stain to the apples of the cheeks and blended out. Make sure to blend quickly – this stuff really stains !
Next is powder. I shook out a bit of Nars loose powder into the lid, and dipped in first with, oddly enough, my Bobbi Brown eyeshadow contouring brush. I like to apply in areas that tend to ‘eat’ the powder from my face with a slightly heavier hand, to ensure I won’t need to touch-up during the day, and this dense bristle brush does the trick. As you can see, I applied the powder in half moons underneath my eyes, but also on the sides of my nose, and my forehead (particularly just between and above the eyes).
I then buffed on the remainder of the powder in the lid with a Kabuki brush. You can, of course, use a nice fluffy powder brush, but mine isn’t great, and I like the natural effect I get with this Kabuki brush.
To finish the eyes, I can now apply shadow over the powder underneath my eyes, and chose this girly pink from my Pop Bare Texture palette, applied with a thin brush from the inner corners to the outer corners, and smudged slightly – you don’t want TOO precise of a line.
Eyebrows were defined using a flat ended eyeliner brush. I first brushed them in to place, and then applied MAC’s corduroy in quick, short strokes, blending upwards a bit, as I really like the look of a full brow. I find the powder looks more natural than eyebrow pencil, which can sometimes look very hard indeed. Make sure not to pick up too much powder, or you risk getting it all over your freshly made up face!
Lower lashes were defined using a more natural mascara (L’exceptionnel de Chanel). Note how I’m holding the mascara wand parallel to the lower lash line – this ensures a more natural application, as lashes that are too heavy on the bottom make eyes look smaller, and bear a striking resemblance to tarantula legs. I only applied the mascara to the outer half of the lower lash line, and a very light coat.
For the finishing touches, I first applied a brush with a wonderful Bobbi Brown blush brush. When you’re applying blush, application will depend on the look you want. For contouring and a defined cheekbone look, make a fish face and apply to the hollow part of your cheeks, blending upwards and outwards to the hairline. As I was going for a bright, natural look, you’ll see I’m smiling, applying the blush to the applies of the cheek and sweeping it slightly back towards my ears.
To set my makeup, I misted my face with a bit of mineral water. I find the water sets just as well as any makeup fixing sprays and makes my face look fresh and slightly glowing. I usually use a rose water spray, but am just using regular mineral water today.
Finally, for the lips, I first applied a lip balm (I love rosebud salve) and then used color on top ( the coral color from the Chanel Voyage Palette). I use my fingers for this, which isn’t very hygienic (wash your hands first!) but gives me the look I like.. natural and soft, slightly imprecise. I rubbed the lip balm in, then applied the color to the middle of my mouth, blending out to the sides with my finger.
Final step ? Take your look out to lunch, like I did.. and if you’re lucky, maybe even to the opera !